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ASCII gourmet "Jiro" and "Sabu -chan" ... A man who inherits the gene of two great stores speaks for the first time (Oimachi, Tokyo) (Part 1)

Written By mobilephonebrand

"Story" is more important than "taste" when eating ramen."Story" is the best seasoning that is better than anything.I will introduce the "story" that the shop has been spun so far, and the "story" full of the unbalanced love that I am spinning with the shop.

"Ramen Jiro" and "Sabu -chan".

I don't think I need to explain these two ramen shops now.A daimyo store that has been running on the top of the ramen world in Showa and Heisei together."Jiro" is still alive, and there are many disciple shops nationwide.On the other hand, "Sabu -chan" closed unfortunately in 2017.And the shopkeeper has entered the demon.The effects of these two stores on the ramen world are immeasurable.

There is a man who has a miraculous experience of studying ramen at these two famous stores.However, he has never talked about his thoughts on the two shops, saying, "I can't talk."

Above all, this owner is "silent and super kowamote".I have never heard of anything other than the minimum word, such as "Welcome" or "Thank you".Moreover, there were rumors that "a considerable user of the extreme vacuum worker", and it also emitted a unique aura that can be convinced, and it was not very easy to talk to.

The owner who continues to work silently

As you can see from those who have been to this shop in the past, the shop was always dominated by the tension that was always tight.When it was renewed in July last year, the kitchen was completely surrounded by the wall as part of Corona measures, and there was no chance to see the owner.

Inside the store where the kitchen is surrounded by walls

However, thanks to the common acquaintance with the owner, I decided to have the opportunity to talk to the owner.What I felt there was that he was a kind and kind person, and he didn't seem to hate the story unexpectedly.However, at first I was quite reluctant to receive the interview, and I was not reluctant at all.However, as a result of persistent asking and defeating, "If you miss this opportunity, you can't hear a live story!"

The story of the two great shops that I have never spoken anywhere, and the story of the owner himself.I was able to hear a lot this time.This may be the first and last.I had a really valuable opportunity!

As it was a miracle I got, it was a trilogy of Nantes, the longest in Nantes, as a result of writing to deliver it without any places (laughs).I'm still worried that I could talk.I was able to listen to a terrible story so much.

The "quiet legendary shop", which has been silent for 20 years, has finally taken off the veil.If you don't know this shop, I would like you to know the greatness, and I think there are many people who know this shop for the first time!

It has become an unprecedented long story, but please stay with you for 3 weeks.Never lose!

The front swing has become longer.This time, I spin the "story".is.

Currently, "Nuta", which has a store in Oimachi

Ramen provided by "Naita"

Once again, the name of the owner is Masato Yamanaka.

Masato Yamanaka store owner

When I was a kid, I was moving around the country for my parents' work.At the age of 17, she lived in Yokohama at the time, and was shocked to eat ramen from the popular family ramen shop in the neighborhood.After that, I started going to a high school in Ueno, and because of his younger brother who liked ramen, eating ramen in Tokyo.Among them, I was particularly addicted to Mita's "Ramen Jiro" and "Sabu -chan" in Jimbocho.

"It's the same feeling that you can't stop snacks, and you've been addicted to eat asexually. I went there all the time."

After that, Yamanaka drove boxing and karate seriously.He was a real rumor that he was "a considerable user of extreme vacuum", and he was a fierce person who also participated in the All Japan Championship.However, after retiring from the player, I wanted to be involved in eating and drinking work that I wanted to do for a long time, rather than living as a leader, so I started working part -time in Mijuku at night while doing karate during the day.is.

At the age of 23, Mr. Yamanaka meets his destiny.Wakabayashi, the owner of "Ramen Jiro Meguro Store", came to the restaurant where he worked.Mr. Yamanaka has been to Meguro many times until then, and I was acquainted with Wakabayashi.At that time, Wakabayashi was injured and was closed for a long time.Mr. Yamanaka also retired from karate's active duty, and the daytime time was free, so he asked Mr. Wakabayashi, "Let's help?"This led to Mr. Yamanaka helped to prepare for the Meguro store.

In the early morning, I set up at the Meguro store, and in the daytime I sometimes stand in the store as an assistant, but at night I started taking a cock and two pairs of straw.At night, Mr. Wakabayashi, who was in business, contacted him, and often went to drink.

"At that time, Mr. Wakabayashi was single, so I drank and eat it every night. Thanks to that, I didn't cost any food expenses. If I didn't have that period, I wouldn't have saved the opening funds (laughs).. I'm really grateful. "

Wakabayashi goes home and goes to bed, but Yamanaka goes to the store early in the morning and prepares.As a result, I couldn't sleep at all, but it was a work that I could do.And the biggest job after preparation is ──

"Waking Wakabayashi, who doesn't happen, was a tougher job than preparation (laughs). I enjoyed the time in Meguro."

Also, when I was preparing early in the morning, sometimes my father on the way to the Mita head office would come.So I was looking forward to Mr. Yamanaka's modest pleasure to have a little conversation with his father.My father always came on the turnip, so I was glad if I could see the turnip stopped in the blinds in the shop.

Through such a life, Mr. Yamanaka was able to learn about Jiro from scratch.

After four years, Mr. Yamanaka grew in the feeling of "Let's stand alone."He took over the job of the Meguro store to his brother, who loved ramen, and began to open his own store.

"Did you feel like" Let's do Ramen Jiro "in Yamanaka -san?"

I tried to hit what I was most interested in.Then ──

"I didn't have it at all. After all," Jiro "is" Mita's father ". So at least I can't do it. I want to make a ramen of" Jiro ".However, I thought I couldn't do it as "Jiro". So, at that time, my father told me, "Is it?"I declined while joking about "shop" (laughs). "

ASCIIグルメ 「二郎」「さぶちゃん」……偉大なる2つの名店の遺伝子を継承する男が初めて語る過去と未来 のスた(東京・大井町)(前編)

It is not possible to succeed "Jiro" because of the strong respect for his father.There was a solid determination.And I wanted to express my own "Jiro's taste" by not succeeding Jiro.

And at the same time, there was another shop with another thoughtful feeling as "Jiro".That is "Sabu -chan".Mr. Yamanaka wanted to learn from "Sabu -chan", which had been as close as "Jiro" since high school before opening his own shop.He visited the owner, Saburo Kinoshita, and talked directly.

"Please tell me how to make ramen"

On the other hand, Mr. Kinoshita's answer is a word.

"Yada"

It seems that it was clearly refused by the refreshing (laughs).Still, Mr. Yamanaka did not give up and asked him many times.Then, he was forgiven to visit, saying, "I don't need an assistant, I don't intend to teach at all. I just need to look sideways."Then, I went to Yamanaka's "Sabu -chan" every day and took notes while watching it sideways.

"Sabu -chan" "Han -chanlamen" (Photo provided by Takeshi Yamamoto)

By the way, when I talked to Mr. Yamanaka, Kinoshita said that he was "uncle", and Yamanaka still calls Kinoshita "Uncle".

"I go before the store opens and wait for my uncle in front of the store, but sometimes I come at 8:00 in the morning, sometimes at 9 o'clock.The shop always opens at the same time (laughs). There was the essence of "Sabu -chan". "

This time, I was able to show the valuable notes that Yamanaka took at that time.It was recorded without leaking until Nant Kinoshita was taking a break, as well as basic things, such as the amount of gala and the time to stew the gengots.

"In short, how do you hate the process, and how do you match your books for the hasho?"

Mr. Yamanaka always recorded faithfully and comparable analysis, and unraveled the "body clock" that Kinoshita wore over the years."Don't overlook one."A feeling close to Mr. Yamanaka's obsession has been transmitted from the memo as Hishihishi.

Speaking of "Sabu -chan" specialties, half a fried rice, commonly known as "Han -chan".When making this, Mr. Kinoshita first dropped the eggs in a Chinese pot and put the eggs on the egg, but put the cigarette on the time until the fire enters the fire.There was also.

Currently, "Han -chan" is also provided in "Suta", but Mr. Yamanaka recalls that the eggs are on fire, "It's time for my uncle to cigarize now."That's right (laughs).In Yamanaka, Kinoshita's body clock is firmly engraved.

"Half -chan" made by Yamanaka shopkeeper

Mr. Kinoshita has such an exciting image that smokes and takes a break during business.But the work is

"The ramen of" Sabu -chan "is simple at first glance, so it's easy to make it, but it's actually very deep. Certainly, it is easy to make it easily if you just trace the cooking process. But your uncle's gala.The way of cleaning was really polite. The amount of gala I was using was so much more compared to the current ramen shop.

With such detailed and polite work, the "Sabu -chan" was created, "the taste that seems to be a normal ramen, but is very addictive and addictive."

"Sabu -chan going" for half a year.Eventually, not only the tour, Kinoshita -san began to help him, saying, "Let's cut green onions?"

Mr. Yamanaka, who finally decided to open his shop, told Kinoshita the opening date when he left "Sabu -chan".Then, 5 minutes before the opening day of the opening, Mr. Kinoshita suddenly called.Mr. Kinoshita told Yamanaka who was about to open.

"The uncle hooked the bowl when raising the noodles, and had a soup about twice to the customer, so be careful."

It seems that it was cut off (laughs).Advice that can not be said to be advice.Moreover, depending on the opening, just before the opening.In fact, it was like an "uncle"."I remember the opening day and I would like to contact you," said Yamanaka, an unforgettable memory.

"Sabu -chan" closed in 2017, but Kinoshita was just standing in the kitchen just before the store was closed.Mr. Yamanaka, who couldn't see it, had offered to Mr. Kinoshita to "help."However, Kinoshita's answer is "Do your own store."Mr. Yamanaka, who wanted to give back somehow, said, "Because my store is coming when I'm off," he went down several times, but eventually did not shake his neck until the end.Until the end, the craftsman's pride is pierced."Uncle" was such a person.

In November 1999, Yamanaka opened his own shop, Rin.She was 27 years old.When you ask about the origin of the store name "Rin",

"If you think about it now, it's a good store name (laughs)."

I was laughing with a shy smell.No, I think it's a very nice name that doesn't fade now!

The store at that time.The tent was given by the Wakabayashi owner of "Jiro Meguro"

The signboard at that time is still displayed in the shop of "no Suta"

Now, it's finally open!Indeed, Mr. Yamanaka, who studied ramen of "Jiro" and "Sabu -chan", was the menu created at the time of opening?

So this is the first part.In the second part, Mr. Yamanaka's secret story of the menu "Covered 1" and "Funding 2" devised based on the ramen of "Sabu -chan" and "Jiro", and his unknown truth.Then, about Oimachi Honten, which has been closed for several years, renamed "Rin" to "Suta", and store fires that have been prepared for closed.In addition, the origin of the name of the store that Yamanaka -san has never spoken anywhere will be revealed.What is Mr. Yamanaka's thoughts in this mysterious store name mixed with hiragana and katakana?I was happy just to know this this time (laughs).There are plenty of second part!looking forward to!

Hirofumi Akaike Hirofumi Akaike (Fuji TV employee)

Joined Fuji TV in 2001.He plans a number of programs specializing in ramen, such as the drama "Koizumi-san who loves ramen", and the documentary "Nonfix Docky Noodles" and "RAMEN-DO".He has been eating since college for more than 20 years, and he still eats in the center of Tokyo, sewing between businesses.He loves Ramen Jiro.

Hundred noodles (https: // ramen.Walkerplus.Ko M / Hyukumenjin /)

The person Twitter @ekiaka